Inspiration and innovation at Silmo Paris 2023

November 15, 2023 Jeremy Wong

True to form, Silmo Paris 2023 was a showcase of the latest trends and cutting-edge advancements in eyewear design, sustainability and technology, as well as a providing a great platform for networking, discovery and industry collaboration.

 

This famous annual European optical fair has expanded significantly since its 1967 inception, now occupying a whopping 80,000sqm (about the size of 11 rugby fields) spread over two giant exhibition halls on the outskirts of Paris. According to Silmo president Amelié Morel, 790 exhibitors showcased their products and innovations to an international audience of more than 39,000 visitors this year. Among them were Australasian suppliers Eyes Right Optical’s brother and sister director duo Mark and Lisa Wymond, New Zealand suppliers Phoenix Eyewear’s Mark Coleman and Phil Wilson, and Little Peach’s Jon and David Bearpark. It was great to catch up with both designers and wholesalers, and other optometrists and dispensing opticians, to check out what could be our next amazing eyewear brands.

 

                          

Eyes Right Optical’s Mark Wymond and sister Lisa                          Little Peach’s Jon and David Bearpark
with Silmo president and Morel director Amelié Morel (centre)       with Orewa Optics’ Angela Mitchell

 

 

Speaking to some of those brands’ designers gave me an insight into the difficulties they have in making their complex visions reality. Every year, some of the larger names turn out two or more collections with 10 new shapes in multiple colours, representing a huge amount of design, planning and production work. So I always love seeing their creativity in putting together a stand to attract customers, be it with their crew’s outfits, eye-catching stand designs, unusual themes and colours, or all of the above. Each brand has to sell so much eyewear just to break even, with some stands costing tens of thousands of euros!

 

Legion, by Parasite Eyewear

 

At the very least, most succeeded in unveiling several captivating trends in eyewear and sunglasses, all likely to influence the industry over the coming year. A few notable trends included:

• Bold – Unconventional frames were a prominent trend, capturing attention with their unusual shapes and daring designs
• Retro and vintage – Nostalgia prevailed, with classic shapes in tortoiseshell and black. Variations of the theme were prominent among brands that have been making those styles since the 1940s
• Colour – Bright multi-coloured frames made a strong showing, offering wearers a modern, fun and definitely not conservative option
• Sustainability – Reflecting the industry's growing commitment to eco-conscious practices. Everywhere you looked, manufacturers emphasised environmentally friendly materials, such as recycled plastics, bio-based acetates and biodegradable natural materials, like wood and bamboo. Several brands also explored circular economy principles, implementing recycling programmes for old frames and reducing waste throughout the production process.

 

This year’s fair also showcased some revolutionary advances in eyewear technology, including the use of lightweight materials such as titanium, stainless steel and carbon fibre, which all offer enhanced comfort and flexibility. The use of stone, leather and recycled ocean plastics also demonstrated the industry's willingness to push boundaries and create unique eyewear options.

 

Tree Spectacles designer Marco Barp with Phoenix Eyewear’s Phil Wilson and Mark Collman

 

Although diamond embellishments and gold-plated and platinum eyewear made appearances from some of the more exclusive brands, these premium pieces were in the minority. The frames’ highly detailed artisanal workmanship was, unsurprisingly, also reflected in their price point.

 

Eyewear designer Caroline Abram

 

At the other end of the labour-intensity scale, 3D printing expedites the production process and is also on the rise, thanks to some innovative brands. Moreover, this technology allows for customisation and a personalised fit, reduces waste and opens up new possibilities for intricate, unconventional and more bespoke designs.

 

Pushing boundaries

 

Artificial intelligence (AI) has also begun making waves in the eyewear industry. From virtual try-on experiences to AI-enabled frame recommendations based on facial features and style preferences, Silmo 2023 showed how AI is shaping the future of eyewear. Cutting-edge, smart eyewear - bound to be increasingly part of our offering - also made several appearances.

 

Kirk & Kirk's Jason Kirk

 

A small section of the fair was dedicated to new concepts designed to solve eyewear issues, or at least start conversations. Many were sports related, which tied in nicely with both the Rugby World Cup (whose fans had descended on the city for the fair’s duration) and the Paris 2024 Olympics. Industrial designers and scientists displayed innovative prototypes incorporating their ideas to help athletes see and perform better.

 

Rayzor AR glasses by Adi Abramov

 

The educational seminars also touched upon what’s new and emerging, with the 12^th Silmo Academy Scientific Symposium, organised by the International Opticians’ Association, covering topics from the latest eye movement research to how to run a business better with more effective teams.

 

The talks I went to, however, weren’t particularly well attended, despite a lot of pre-enrolments. The ‘better business’ talk was filled with succinct ideas and presented with great humour and Kiwi vernacular by Stephen Caunter, whose delivery has entertained many a New Zealand dispensing optician conference crowd.

 

  

Albert I’mStein’s latest creations (left) and some lightweight ingenuity from Lool (right)

 

The flamboyant Silmo d’Or awards night at Cirque Alexis Gruss saw Orewa Optics’ Angela Mitchell nominated for the prestigious International Optician of the Year award. Sadly, she and three other nominees lost out to French multiple-practice owner Jean-François Porte, but it was great to see a New Zealand dispensing optician represented.

 

Angela was the only New Zealand practice owner I actually spotted at the show, which surprised me as this is the premier European eyewear show, where new brands can be found to give independent practices an edge over their competitors. Even if you aren’t looking for new brands, Silmo Paris is a sight to behold, just like the city’s art galleries, museums and churches. You can so easily tack this incredible show onto a European holiday.

 

As the industry continues to evolve, Silmo Paris remains at the forefront, inspiring professionals and setting the stage for the future of eyewear and I recommend you visit, at least once.

 

 

Jeremy Wong is a therapeutically trained senior optometrist, sports vision specialist and the former owner of Gates Eyewear. He is also a photographer and responsible for most of the pictures accompanying this feature. For more from Jeremy in Paris, check out @eyeguysphotos.